Sixth day (and counting) at base camp...I am saying this with a mock Geordie accent (a little like the one Jim and his brother adopt).
The weather forecast has not been very promising. That said, we are the only team still at base camp. There is a hint of good weather on the 16th/17th/18th, summit winds of 35-50 mph (not really what I would call good weather) so all the other teams moved up to ABC to try and grab an early summit.
Still no mention of the monsoon in the weather forecasts (traditionally the best summit weather is just as the monsoon system arrives and pushes the jet stream away from Everest giving a few calmer days) and to my mind waiting is the best strategy. Most teams appear to be using European weather forecast whereas we are using an American one (the same source that delivered excellent summit conditions for me last year and Cho Oyu) so I am pleased we all agreed to hold off and just hope it proves to be the correct decision, although a bit strange when the weather forecast is the most important part of the day (makes me feel a bit like an Australian cricket fan hoping the rain will save them again).
Since we made this decision, it looks like the Chinese have also began to lean towards a delay and are now saying the summit ropes won't be fixed until the 18th. I understand this has created panic amongst the teams at ABC who now have to decide whether to stay up there, come back down or try and fix the ropes themselves. There is a meeting this afternoon between the CTMA and teams to try and work things out but these "politics" appear to rear their head very regularly (this is very frustrating as today looked like a good summit day and no doubt many people made it from the South, although it is Friday the 13th so maybe people held back).
I am hopeful that we will be able to make our move on or around the 17th but best not to get a date into the head before the weather settles. Although, if we have to wait much longer we will have to start thinking about re-acclimatising (acclimatisation normally lasts around two weeks) which would be highly annoying.
Unfortunately, Stephen had to return to Kathmandu a few days ago. He had been very ill for a over a week and lost a lot of weight so this seemed the most sensible decision. The early signs are promising that he will be able to return to the team over the course of the next few days and hopefully be able to join up in time for the summit bid.
Without a firm departure date, everyone is just trying to keep their frustrations in check and keep themselves busy and healthy. I am trying to eat and sleep lots (up to over ten hours a night now), keep healthy and do regular exercise without wearing myself out although wandering round base camp feels like a prison exercise yard (not from first hand experience mind) so am trying to be creative and find new places to visit.....as well as doing 'things'.
Hopefully will have some more positive news to report in the next few days.
The weather forecast has not been very promising. That said, we are the only team still at base camp. There is a hint of good weather on the 16th/17th/18th, summit winds of 35-50 mph (not really what I would call good weather) so all the other teams moved up to ABC to try and grab an early summit.
Still no mention of the monsoon in the weather forecasts (traditionally the best summit weather is just as the monsoon system arrives and pushes the jet stream away from Everest giving a few calmer days) and to my mind waiting is the best strategy. Most teams appear to be using European weather forecast whereas we are using an American one (the same source that delivered excellent summit conditions for me last year and Cho Oyu) so I am pleased we all agreed to hold off and just hope it proves to be the correct decision, although a bit strange when the weather forecast is the most important part of the day (makes me feel a bit like an Australian cricket fan hoping the rain will save them again).
Since we made this decision, it looks like the Chinese have also began to lean towards a delay and are now saying the summit ropes won't be fixed until the 18th. I understand this has created panic amongst the teams at ABC who now have to decide whether to stay up there, come back down or try and fix the ropes themselves. There is a meeting this afternoon between the CTMA and teams to try and work things out but these "politics" appear to rear their head very regularly (this is very frustrating as today looked like a good summit day and no doubt many people made it from the South, although it is Friday the 13th so maybe people held back).
I am hopeful that we will be able to make our move on or around the 17th but best not to get a date into the head before the weather settles. Although, if we have to wait much longer we will have to start thinking about re-acclimatising (acclimatisation normally lasts around two weeks) which would be highly annoying.
Unfortunately, Stephen had to return to Kathmandu a few days ago. He had been very ill for a over a week and lost a lot of weight so this seemed the most sensible decision. The early signs are promising that he will be able to return to the team over the course of the next few days and hopefully be able to join up in time for the summit bid.
Without a firm departure date, everyone is just trying to keep their frustrations in check and keep themselves busy and healthy. I am trying to eat and sleep lots (up to over ten hours a night now), keep healthy and do regular exercise without wearing myself out although wandering round base camp feels like a prison exercise yard (not from first hand experience mind) so am trying to be creative and find new places to visit.....as well as doing 'things'.
Hopefully will have some more positive news to report in the next few days.
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