Most of the team left BC on the 19th to either break the back of the journey and use intermediate camp or to give an extra rest day at ABC. My preference is to spend an extra day at BC, where I am sleeping and eating well. Since the Sherpas arrived down here I have been eating with them. I much prefer their Dhal Bhat (Lentil Curry, this won't surprise those of you who know I am a huge fan of beans and lentils) to the western food that we are normally served, and crucially also find it much easier to eats lots of it. Salam has also been joining me and we have been told we are now honourary Sherpas- hopefully this is a good omen!
After arriving at ABC on the 20th, I will rest for one day before climbing up the North Col on the 22nd. I have left a fair bit of kit at the North Col camp so shouldn't have as much to carry as last time and will be probably take around 4.5 hours. Although if some of this kit (eg. down kit) was lost in the storms I won't be climbing higher but since the critical stuff was in the group tent it should be OK.
Once we have left ABC there will be no more rest days as the body deteriorates more quickly the higher you go so we will climb to 7800m the next day. Most of this day (up to 7500m) will be spent on the North Ridge, which is a snow slope, and above 7500m the ground changes to mixed snow and rock. This will be a tough day, last year I didn't arrive in camp until 1930 and some of the team until after 2100 which made it difficult to refuel and hydrate properly. I went well up to 7500m a couple of weeks ago and am aiming to leave North Col earlier and make much better time this year.
The next day continues on mixed snow and rock up to 8300m. Like the previous day not massively technical but I strained my knee ligaments on this day last year so need to be careful not to repeat although am carrying a brace and a strapping. This should take 4 to 5 hours and get me to high camp around lunchtime/ early afternoon.
Once at 8300m, I will spend the rest of the day trying to melt snow/ice for water and eat as much as possible - both an absolute nightmare at this altitude!!
We have spoken a lot about summit day at BC and the team have all been allocated departure times based on expected speed. I am due to be the last to leave my tent at 2200 Nepal time (1745 UK time) on the 24th and all being well aim to reach the summit in around 8 to 9 hours, so by the time everyone in the UK wakes up on the 25th I should be on my way down.
Obviously it will be difficult for me to update this until I return so the Adventure Peaks website (link on the left on the main blog page in the new section, although I understand they have launched a new website since we have been out here so may not work anymore) is the best place to follow our progress. I also understand Stu is planning staying up in his lucky pants to update the team's progress through the night on summit night.
We are now back up to a full complement for the summit attempt so hopefully there will be good news all round in a few days.
After arriving at ABC on the 20th, I will rest for one day before climbing up the North Col on the 22nd. I have left a fair bit of kit at the North Col camp so shouldn't have as much to carry as last time and will be probably take around 4.5 hours. Although if some of this kit (eg. down kit) was lost in the storms I won't be climbing higher but since the critical stuff was in the group tent it should be OK.
Once we have left ABC there will be no more rest days as the body deteriorates more quickly the higher you go so we will climb to 7800m the next day. Most of this day (up to 7500m) will be spent on the North Ridge, which is a snow slope, and above 7500m the ground changes to mixed snow and rock. This will be a tough day, last year I didn't arrive in camp until 1930 and some of the team until after 2100 which made it difficult to refuel and hydrate properly. I went well up to 7500m a couple of weeks ago and am aiming to leave North Col earlier and make much better time this year.
The next day continues on mixed snow and rock up to 8300m. Like the previous day not massively technical but I strained my knee ligaments on this day last year so need to be careful not to repeat although am carrying a brace and a strapping. This should take 4 to 5 hours and get me to high camp around lunchtime/ early afternoon.
Once at 8300m, I will spend the rest of the day trying to melt snow/ice for water and eat as much as possible - both an absolute nightmare at this altitude!!
We have spoken a lot about summit day at BC and the team have all been allocated departure times based on expected speed. I am due to be the last to leave my tent at 2200 Nepal time (1745 UK time) on the 24th and all being well aim to reach the summit in around 8 to 9 hours, so by the time everyone in the UK wakes up on the 25th I should be on my way down.
Obviously it will be difficult for me to update this until I return so the Adventure Peaks website (link on the left on the main blog page in the new section, although I understand they have launched a new website since we have been out here so may not work anymore) is the best place to follow our progress. I also understand Stu is planning staying up in his lucky pants to update the team's progress through the night on summit night.
We are now back up to a full complement for the summit attempt so hopefully there will be good news all round in a few days.
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